High meadow camp country in western China

Field notes / Camping

The 3 a.m. problem at 4,000 metres.

Almost everyone sleeps worse at altitude on the first nights. Almost nobody has to. The fix is boring, medical and entirely in the itinerary.

Ask a tent circle at 4,000 metres how they slept and the answers will rhyme: hard to fall asleep, woke at three, strange dreams, better after night two. This is normal physiology — periodic breathing, lighter sleep stages, and the cold nose — and it fades as the body acclimatizes. But ‘normal’ is not the same as ‘unavoidable’, and the itinerary does most of the work.

What altitude does to sleep

Thin air means your body works harder to keep blood oxygen steady, and at night the breathing control wobbles: you cycle through deep breaths and pauses (periodic breathing) that wake you without your quite knowing why. Sleep also gets shallower, and dreams get vivid. None of it is dangerous at trekking altitudes — but it is the reason night one feels shorter than it was.

What actually helps

The boring list, and it works: drink more than feels natural during the day and less in the last hour (night-time bathroom trips are the real sleep killer); keep the day’s effort below the conversation-hard threshold; eat a real dinner; go to bed warm — a hot water bottle in the bag is not a luxury at 4,000 metres; and sleep propped slightly higher than usual. Skip alcohol at altitude entirely; it fragments exactly the sleep you are losing anyway.

How the itineraries stage it

Our camp journeys build the altitude in deliberately. The Zhagana trek makes day one a short walk at 3,000 metres with a village guesthouse night before the first camp; camps sit near 3,100 rather than pushing higher; and the pass day comes after two settled nights. The Hulunbuir steppe journey sidesteps the problem entirely — grassland camps are low — which is why it suits mixed groups. For the medical detail, our altitude medicine guide covers symptoms and the honest line on what warrants attention.

Where this leads
The Zhagana camp trek How camps work Altitude medicine guide